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@ -36,15 +36,15 @@ As mentioned before, I am basing this tutorial on the graphical GUI of Raspbian
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|Description|Image|
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|Raspberry Pi 3||
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|MicroSD card 16GB (minimal to have some buffer for the future) Make sure you have the right card reader to plug the MicroSD card into your computer!||
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|Designated Raspberry power supply (min. 2,5A 5V, I recommend 3A) Do not use other USB chargers since insufficient power supply (shown in GUI as lightening symbol in the upper right corner) will result in serious issues like e.g. Bluetooth not working) A cable switch might be a good thing since you might have to hard-reset your Pi in the early days more often and the Pi itself does not have a power switch||
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|USB Mouse||
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|USB Keyboard||
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|HDMI cable, full size to whatever your display needs (Obsolete, if you going for the 7” Raspberry display setup)||
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|Display with HDMI input (Obsolete, if you going for the 7” Raspberry display setup)||
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|*Optional:* Raspberry case (Obsolete, if you going for the 7” Raspberry display setup)||
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|*Optional:* Ethernet cable (Obsolete, if you not want to use WiFi to connect the Raspberry to your gateway)||
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|Raspberry Pi 3||
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|MicroSD card 16GB (minimal to have some buffer for the future) Make sure you have the right card reader to plug the MicroSD card into your computer!||
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|Designated Raspberry power supply (min. 2,5A 5V, I recommend 3A) Do not use other USB chargers since insufficient power supply (shown in GUI as lightening symbol in the upper right corner) will result in serious issues like e.g. Bluetooth not working) A cable switch might be a good thing since you might have to hard-reset your Pi in the early days more often and the Pi itself does not have a power switch||
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|USB Mouse||
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|USB Keyboard||
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|HDMI cable, full size to whatever your display needs (Obsolete, if you going for the 7” Raspberry display setup)||
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|Display with HDMI input (Obsolete, if you going for the 7” Raspberry display setup)||
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|*Optional:* Raspberry case (Obsolete, if you going for the 7” Raspberry display setup)||
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|*Optional:* Ethernet cable (Obsolete, if you not want to use WiFi to connect the Raspberry to your gateway)||
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## Additional hardware for optional setup of the controller with 7” Raspberry display:
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(I found it very useful to have one permanent GUI interface mounted on your controller, you can also use this touchscreen interface directly to interact with your home automation):
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@ -52,9 +52,9 @@ As mentioned before, I am basing this tutorial on the graphical GUI of Raspbian
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|Description|Image|
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|Raspberry Pi 7" Touch-Display||
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|Premium case for Raspberry Pi 7" Touch-Display (closed version) often sold in bundle with Touch-Display, should be available in black, white and transparent. This is a very good case if you want to place the controller on a table or counter since it is protecting the Raspberry from the back.||
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|*Alternative:* Cases for Raspberry Pi 7" Touch-Display. You will find a wide range of other cases. The open versions might give you a better access to the Pi GPIO pins or for changing SD card. Please consider: since you can rotate the image of the GUI on the display you can also choose to switch from landscape to portrait orientation.||
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|Bluetooth keyboard (optional, since the optional on screen touch keyboard for Raspbian PIXEL was not working without errors, I decided to go for a Bluetooth keyboard which makes the typing much easier)||
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|Premium case for Raspberry Pi 7" Touch-Display (closed version) often sold in bundle with Touch-Display, should be available in black, white and transparent. This is a very good case if you want to place the controller on a table or counter since it is protecting the Raspberry from the back.||
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|*Alternative:* Cases for Raspberry Pi 7" Touch-Display. You will find a wide range of other cases. The open versions might give you a better access to the Pi GPIO pins or for changing SD card. Please consider: since you can rotate the image of the GUI on the display you can also choose to switch from landscape to portrait orientation.||
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|Bluetooth keyboard (optional, since the optional on screen touch keyboard for Raspbian PIXEL was not working without errors, I decided to go for a Bluetooth keyboard which makes the typing much easier)||
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## Z-Wave Controller hardware
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If you want to use the Z-Wave technology for your home automation project you have to have one Z-Wave controller connected to your Raspberry
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@ -62,9 +62,9 @@ If you want to use the Z-Wave technology for your home automation project you ha
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|Description|Image|
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|UZB Z-Wave PLUS USB stick by Z-Wave.Me *Pros:* Cheapest controller, small. *Cons:* For inclusion, the controller has to be plugged into the Raspberry, so for mounted devices like wall switches , you have to take the Raspberry in close proximity of the device or do the inclusion before you mount the switch inside the wall.||
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|*Alternative:* Aeotec by Aeon Labs Z-Stick Gen5 *Pros:* Allows offline inclusion of Z-Wave devices which makes it very easy since you only have to take the stick to the mounted device, not the entire Raspberry. *Cons:* Including battery powered devices into openHAB2 requires a special process and might cause errors(see tutorial]||
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|*NOT REALLY an Alternative:* Z-Wave Z-Wave.Me Razberry 2 Daughter Card for Raspberry Pi Home Automation (not plug and play compatible with optional setup of the controller with 7” Raspberry display!)*Pros:* will be mounted directly on the Raspberry so it is not using a USB port *Cons:* will be mounted directly on the Raspberry which is blocking the GPIO pins for e.g. the Display power supply or additional cooling fans, so you have to manually solder the power wires at the back of the razberry. Is using the i/o port of the Raspberry Pi 3 on board Bluetooth, so a lot of additional configuration is needed to get the razberry and the Bluetooth running in parallel. Most expensive controller.||
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|UZB Z-Wave PLUS USB stick by Z-Wave.Me *Pros:* Cheapest controller, small. *Cons:* For inclusion, the controller has to be plugged into the Raspberry, so for mounted devices like wall switches , you have to take the Raspberry in close proximity of the device or do the inclusion before you mount the switch inside the wall.||
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|*Alternative:* Aeotec by Aeon Labs Z-Stick Gen5 *Pros:* Allows offline inclusion of Z-Wave devices which makes it very easy since you only have to take the stick to the mounted device, not the entire Raspberry. *Cons:* Including battery powered devices into openHAB2 requires a special process and might cause errors(see tutorial]||
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|*NOT REALLY an Alternative:* Z-Wave Z-Wave.Me Razberry 2 Daughter Card for Raspberry Pi Home Automation (not plug and play compatible with optional setup of the controller with 7” Raspberry display!)*Pros:* will be mounted directly on the Raspberry so it is not using a USB port *Cons:* will be mounted directly on the Raspberry which is blocking the GPIO pins for e.g. the Display power supply or additional cooling fans, so you have to manually solder the power wires at the back of the razberry. Is using the i/o port of the Raspberry Pi 3 on board Bluetooth, so a lot of additional configuration is needed to get the razberry and the Bluetooth running in parallel. Most expensive controller.||
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## Z-Wave sensors, switches and actuators
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@ -73,10 +73,10 @@ Since I am doing a German based home automation project you may find that some Z
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|Description|Image|
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|Z-Wave Fibaro Double Switch 2, Z-Wave Plus Smart Switch (comes at almost the same costs than the single switch and gives you 2 channels. Only reason to go for single switch is you need the full power range of the single switch since the double switch has slightly lower range) *NOTE:* This switch is designed to be installed in the electrical power wiring of your home (inside a distributor case). In some countries this may only be allowed to be done by special trained staff (insurance and/or law). ||
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|Aeotec Multi-Sensor 6 ZW100-C - Z-Wave Plus||
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|Z-Wave Aeon Labs ZW088 Z-Wave Key Fob, Gen5||
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|Z-Wave NodOn Smart Plug (not available e.g. in the US)||
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|Z-Wave Fibaro Double Switch 2, Z-Wave Plus Smart Switch (comes at almost the same costs than the single switch and gives you 2 channels. Only reason to go for single switch is you need the full power range of the single switch since the double switch has slightly lower range) *NOTE:* This switch is designed to be installed in the electrical power wiring of your home (inside a distributor case). In some countries this may only be allowed to be done by special trained staff (insurance and/or law). ||
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|Aeotec Multi-Sensor 6 ZW100-C - Z-Wave Plus||
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|Z-Wave Aeon Labs ZW088 Z-Wave Key Fob, Gen5||
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|Z-Wave NodOn Smart Plug (not available e.g. in the US)||
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**NOTE:** If you want to by other Z-Wave devices always make your they are listed in the Z-Wave device list of the openHAB2 Z-Wave binding to make sure they are supported correctly in the context of openHAB2:
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http://www.cd-jackson.com/index.php/zwave/zwave-device-database/zwave-device-list
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@ -87,11 +87,11 @@ You can find an overview on http://docs.openhab.org/addons/bindings.html
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|Description|Image|
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|WiFi XCSOURCE Magic UFO-WiFi LED-Controller Type LD382 (other brand names might work as well, but you have to make sure it is Type LD382, LD382A or LD686)*REMARK:* I was using a WiFi controller on purpose since: It is only about half the price of a Z-Wave WiFi controller. You can control the device as well via smart phone (like light to music feature of the app)But some things you have to be aware of using WiFi LED instead of Z-Wave LED: You have to have a WiFi network to which your Raspberry and your WiFi LED controller is connected. You have to manually install a beta / snapshot version of openHAB2 or manually install the WiFi LED Binding on top of the package based installation of openHAB2 (see tutorial).||
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|RGB LED stripe incl. power supply 12V DC bundle. While you can buy the stripe and the power supply bundle separately, most of the times the bundle will come at the same price or even cheaper. The included power supply plug should directly fit into the power inlet socket of the WiFi controller. *REMARK:* It also allows you to attach the stripe without soldering since you can just cut the cable of the RGB bundle controller and use it to connect the LED stripe to the WiFi controller.||
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|*Optional:* White LED stripe. Since the WiFi LED-Controller is allowing you to at additionally control plain colour LED stripe (or in case of controller type LD686 even two) you might want to get an additional strip in e.g. plain white to create ab clear white illumination. *NOTE:* You might be fine with just the stripe if you already got the power supply with the RGB stripe||
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|*Optional(in my case it was already there and I just included it into my project):* Yamaha Receiver RX-V581||
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|*Optional(in my case it was already there and I just included it into my project):* **Samsung TV Details MISSING** *NOTE:* Even when the binding is not officially supporting your TV you might be lucky||
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|WiFi XCSOURCE Magic UFO-WiFi LED-Controller Type LD382 (other brand names might work as well, but you have to make sure it is Type LD382, LD382A or LD686)*REMARK:* I was using a WiFi controller on purpose since: It is only about half the price of a Z-Wave WiFi controller. You can control the device as well via smart phone (like light to music feature of the app)But some things you have to be aware of using WiFi LED instead of Z-Wave LED: You have to have a WiFi network to which your Raspberry and your WiFi LED controller is connected. You have to manually install a beta / snapshot version of openHAB2 or manually install the WiFi LED Binding on top of the package based installation of openHAB2 (see tutorial).||
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|RGB LED stripe incl. power supply 12V DC bundle. While you can buy the stripe and the power supply bundle separately, most of the times the bundle will come at the same price or even cheaper. The included power supply plug should directly fit into the power inlet socket of the WiFi controller. *REMARK:* It also allows you to attach the stripe without soldering since you can just cut the cable of the RGB bundle controller and use it to connect the LED stripe to the WiFi controller.||
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|*Optional:* White LED stripe. Since the WiFi LED-Controller is allowing you to at additionally control plain colour LED stripe (or in case of controller type LD686 even two) you might want to get an additional strip in e.g. plain white to create ab clear white illumination. *NOTE:* You might be fine with just the stripe if you already got the power supply with the RGB stripe||
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|*Optional(in my case it was already there and I just included it into my project):* Yamaha Receiver RX-V581||
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|*Optional(in my case it was already there and I just included it into my project):* **Samsung TV Details MISSING** *NOTE:* Even when the binding is not officially supporting your TV you might be lucky||
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##Software list:
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@ -117,17 +117,17 @@ How to download software will be explained in the tutorial, but as a reference y
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#Chapter 3: Raspberry hardware and Raspbian OS installation
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##General information about Raspberry interfaces and GPIO pins:
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###Raspberry input Overview:
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###Raspberry GPIO pin Overview:
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###Preparing MicroSD card - writing Raspbian image to MicroSD card (PC required):
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|Description|Image|
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|Download latest Raspbian Release (*.zip file) to a Windows folder||
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|Extract *.zip file to receive *.img file||
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|Use Etcher to write image to a MicroSD card: 1. select image 2. select drive with MicroSD card plugged in to 3. start flashing||
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|Download latest Raspbian Release (*.zip file) to a Windows folder||
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|Extract *.zip file to receive *.img file||
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|Use Etcher to write image to a MicroSD card: 1. select image 2. select drive with MicroSD card plugged in to 3. start flashing||
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-
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-
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